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Glad you like them!

Cheers!

Glad you like it!

Glad you enjoyed it!

You're very welcome!

Sounds great! Hope all went well (apologies for the very late reply)

I think moisture would get in so no I might be wrong though

Sorry for the late reply. Before cavity walls became common that was the way that most stone or brick walls were made. I myself live in a house made of a solid granite wall. The thickness of the wall does protect the interior, so long as the wall is well made and maintained. Most older solid walls use lime mortar and this is (IMHO) key to managing water as it is essentially a breathable mortar that allows any trapped water to leave the building after it has entered. I have a lecture in this series on traditional walls.

Filling a cavity within a double skin wall shouldn't really affect the wiring as most often the wires will either be run on the inside of the inner leaf (i.e. inside the building). They might be surface mounted and visible within trunking (a bit ugly) or placed within a second dry wall layer or they could even be chased into the wall and plastered over. I would check where your wiring is before filling the cavity if you are concerned. Hope this helps. R

Glad to hear that!

Thank you too!

It very much depends, if it's a solid floor then it wouldn't need vents through the wall to supply air... But you may still need vents for cavity walls or indeed to provide air for a suspended floor beyond the new extension. If you have an architect it would be worth asking them for clarification. Cheers

Thanks so much for your reply

Hi Daniel, thanks for the question. If it is a detached house then yes, the cavity walls are usually only on the outside walls. The main function of them is to stop water entering. Where there are brick walls inside, say between rooms, the thickness is probably around 150mm (one brick plus two coats of plaster). For walls between houses it very much depends on how old the house is. Up to around 1950 it was usual to have a solid wall between houses, for houses built after that it will probably have a cavity as they were introduced to combat sound passing between dwellings. Hope this helps.

@@Ramstam ah I see so to sum this up. Cavities are only on the exterior walls of the house and interior walls are solid walls. This is usually the case when the houses were built 1930s+?? I just assumed the walls that are up against houses are solid. Also is there an easy way to tell if a wall is solid or has a cavity??

Hi Daniel, sorry for the late reply. An easy way to tell if a wall is a cavity wall is to look for the weep vents between the bricks. You can usually see these lower down the wall at DPC level and also above lintols. You are right, cavity walls are usually used on the outside as they help protect the building from rain. Cheers

an internal brick wall is usually only one skin wide.

Glad I could help. Cheers

You're very welcome!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

Many thanks for the comment, hope the project goes well.

The wall between two houses, the party wall, should not normally be open to rain at the top so I would say that it would be something you would want checked out. If it is rain then there is probably a problem at roof level, or it could be a leak of another kind. Worth getting a specialist out to look at.

Glad it helped

Hi, Thanks for the question. I think the timestamp in your question might be wrong as the video is only 11:08 long. I'm guessing that its the picture at 9:08? If so the white things sticking through the scratch coat are weep vents (sometimes called perpend vents). they allow air into the cavity and can also let water out. You can see them explained in the next video of this series 2-14. Hope this helps

Hi I'm not sure what exactly you are asking but if you are asking whether cavity walls are economical then the answer probably depends on where they are being built. Its not a technology that is used a lot in Scotland (where I am) but it is used extensively in England and some other places. The cost, and therefore the economical factors of the wall might depend a lot on available materials and skills. The other view of a wall being economical is whether it can reduce running costs over the lifetime of the building. In this case it is possible to make cavity walls which are very high performance. The downside is that there is always a balance between making a cost efficient wall which performs well in terms of heat loss, and making a wall which restricts the passage of water. Cavity walls with fully filled cavities are not suitable for all locations. Not sure if this answers you question but I hope it helps.

Hi, thanks for the question. The radon barrier is similar to a DPM and it should protect the whole house. For interior walls that have foundations under them it would need to be lapped up and over (have a look at the video for interior load bearing partitions). Hope that helps.

@@Ramstam thanks

Glad you like them! Thanks for the comment.

You are welcome! I hope the lectures help.

Many thanks! Nice to know they make sense. Cheers.

Thank you so much 😀

Hi, thanks for the comment. An app for calculating u-values sounds great. I use the BRE calculator which works well (pc only) but it is a bit clunky. If you are looking to extend the app you could look at adding in dewpoint capability which would be a big help. Good luck, hopefully see it in the app store soon.

@@Ramstam I will let you know towards the end of 2020, one colleague asked me to create a generic apps for SIP panels

Hi, thanks for the comment and sorry for the late reply. There are a lot of aspects which are beyond the scope of these videos. They were written originally for first year students so they have to be quite general. I know from practice that the regs do not always agree with the NHBC guidance. For my lectures it's easier to discuss the regs in relation to basic principles. I'll perhaps look at extending the information in future videos. Cheers

All your videos are very interesting to a person who lives within 1970s brutalist building within Glasgow. Very fact that are specific to Scottish building codes is very valuable. I have found some very serious problems that relate to penetrating damp and most recent within the cavity with a insulation material I’ve yet to find online. Perhaps make a great project of what not to do, and are visual signs of damp. I believe all students should see this building?

Thanks for the comment, you are most welcome.